Hornet X FP setup tips here Top Tips WARNING long large page. Try Ctrl+F to find specific key words For the latest MS Hornet NEWS check thread at >>>RCGroups<<<, RCHeliSpot, RunRyder - Read the "Electric Helicopter Beginner's Guide"
again: - Understand your radio features! - Use double sided tape, definitely do NOT glue servo's as you will have to move them. - Set servo limits - Setup up CCPM geometry and symmetry MS-022 servo's (too big)
Futaba s3108 servo's HX3D Futaba s3108 CCPM layout on stock HX3D servo tray. First attempt with reasonable geometry. - Use 2 mm plastic plate risers with double sided sticky tape. The purpose of the riser is to insure that the front servo axle high is sufficient for enough horn clearance on maximum forward cyclic+pitch demand extreme. - Removed a small portion of the servo tray so that the front servo link can drop through the tray hole on extreme +pitch +forward cyclic. I impatiently used a hot soldering iron (see image above). - Furthest servo horn holes for maximum swash defection. Approximate measurements from hole / ball
/ axle centers.
- Reduce all vibrations (vibes
= tail wag) - Stiffen O-rings - Slop - Soft steel main shaft (X 3D). This is true, I had a small ding with the sofa and the shaft got bent. Now I thought that was a flaw but I've since heard that it might be a good thing as I did easily straighten the shaft out with my fingers and thumb (roll to check on smooth surface etc.). A soft as butter shaft might be more reusable than very tough steel that doesn't straighten easily? I'm skeptical but time will tell. - Tail gears and shaft setup. Here's mine after a fair few rebuilds and fiddling:
I build the boom/shaft and gears with a 1/2 mm gap so
as not to cramp on the end bearings for less friction. Remember to assemble
the gearbox case on the boom first as it won't fit over the tail end
gear if you have glued fins etc. For the two middle
bearings on the tail shaft, just put a small blob either side of each
bearing to restrict sliding within a 10 mm range on the shaft. The CA
glue is easily chipped off latter if required. Splines at the conical gear end, that seems to slip first for me under accidental high tail load, used some CA on the spline. The conical should be a tight mesh which is also dependent on the mast collar and main gear install. Assuming that there is no up or down movement of the main shaft and the motor is installed... flick the main gear round with your thumb and take notice how far the main gear continues to move without a tail fitted. Then engage the tail boom and conical gear, you want the tightest fit without excessive gear binding friction (flick the main gear around). With the tail gearbox gears I have a bit of lash movement (see animated GIF below), so you can slightly rock the gears and clearly see that there is no way for them to jump. Too close and you will soon see wear on the tooth ends, like you can see I did once (see top image).
Another X3D tail build text for fitting the conical pinion: I started the splined shaft end into the plastic conical pinion, secured the conical pinion against a hard surface squarely (facing the floor) and gently tapped the rear of the steel tail shaft until the shaft is right through the pinion, flush at the end. This procedure is much more difficult if the tail gear box is already assembled, with one gear trapped inside the gearbox assembly. In which case I use a medium sized flat head screw driver across the rear tail gear, then strategically strike down on to the screw driver without hitting the small cross memeber tail shaft (in the way) or damaging the rear tail gears. Then if you find the rear tail gear and the front conical pinion are too close and won't spin free on the end bearings, carefully prize apart the conical pinion from the end bearing with a small flat screw driver. The less shaft travel the better. (I think). More tail construction considerations: Also carefully check the manufacturing of good symmetry and centring for the hub drill holes. Don't over tighten and strip the hub threads. One flyer once reported odd blade grip screw lengths the through out the balancing. I made a construction error by not screwing the yoke on to the brass sleeve square and it oscillated when spun. To fix had to dismantle and gently heat the brass sleeve to true the thread in the plastic yoke (and the correct way round!). Check for slop by carefully twisting the tail blade
pitch back and forth but unless it's wildly sloppy don't worry too much.
Need to use a fast servo like the HS-50 or it will wag. If you still
have a wag then check for vibes, any vibrations
in the tail boom and frame you can feel must be eliminated (balance
everything). I use the thick sponge tape for gyro mounting, see
*thread* - MS-044 gyro setup... The drifting isn't that bad,
a simple reset fixes it.... tail blades set 25mm apart (folded blades
in Neutral non-HH mode, see this *thread*).
Detailed MS-044 setup threads *thread1*
& *thread2*
and the now more useful MS Composit FAQ.
Try this *thread*
on vibration related issues. See Ms-helituning.com Hornet
Setup Always reset the power and reinitialise when changing
MS-044 gyro pots. Heading Hold gyro mode observations: With the model on the ground at 0 rpm. If you make a small rudder input the HH gyro will try to put you on the requested heading (the tail pitch changes but doesn't return back to neutral when you release the rudder stick). Now try moving the heli as if it were to obey the tail pitch (manually rotate the heli's heading) and you should see the pitch straight up to neutral (as requested heading is achieved). I use the thick sponge tape for gyro mounting. Someone pointed out to me the MS-044 gyro FAQ documentation says '...use the thinnest servo tape (1/16" is good) as possible to allow for the highest gyro gain setting. Using 1/8" ~ 1/4" tape on the Hornet will have the tail oscillate (wag back and forth) even at the lowest gain setting.' Oh???? I was using 1/4" (~6 mm) grey sticky foam for over a year and my gyro / HS-50 tail is very smooth and steady at 80% HH gain and holds for hard 9 degree pitch punch outs. Tried thin tape once and the system was much more jittery and less pretty, so I'm back on the thick sponge tape as it works well for me. But any vibes will cause the MS-044 to malfunction and wag.
- Futaba GY401 setup resources *thread1* & *thread2* & Futaba's Team Tip GY401 setup page
Note that the stops in are deliberately
soft due to the mass and energy of the rotating platter fly wheel. No
sense stressing those tail gears so the rudder stick is slowly returned
to centre. - *Tail still got a wag in hover* in
HH mode at all gain settings and you have tried everything. Then you
might have missed (as I did) that if you use TX remote gain control,
then the gain pot takes on a secondary function of 'delay' setting.
Try setting the gain/delay pot to zero, it makes enough difference to
stop most of that last little wag in hover (more info in the MS Composit
FAQ).
Try this *thread* - Throttle Cut Switch - First thing to do is set this feature up so that you can stop that motor if you make a TX programming error etc. I used 'Throttle Cut' instead of 'Throttle Hold' on the Futaba 7C. Assigned to switch 'A' and 'on' when flicked down. Whatever, test it! - The MS-116 is the easiest ESC I have even used, select
the mode and fly. It has a slow startup and may take several seconds
to spin up to the desired speed. This slow startup is ideal for easy
spool up in any flight curve mode with the use of a Throttle cut switch
opened, without stripping main gears. eg. Move your throttle stick to
the centers (0 pitch) and flick the switch to release Throttle cut engaging
the mid stick throttle setting. The heli spins up. See Ms-helituning.com
Hornet
Setup - Need a 64 pitch / 0.4 mod Hornet pinion? Try this
list
of pinion suppliers - What's the main differences
between the base Hornet CP kit range? - Alternative tail boom replacement with CF arrow shafts *thread1* & *thread2* - Tail stretching, belt drive conversions, mods and resources *thread* - Warning: If you are an unlucky Walkera Dragonfly (22E-Z with FP tail motor, 22A is a close H2 clone) or Venom Night Ranger 3D (VNR3D/22E-Z) owner, sorry but you have purchased a cheap potentially dangerous clone. They are not '3D out the box' and are a misrepresentation of the term so don't be fooled. The marketing hype words like cheap, 3D and motorized tail rotor are generally considered mutually exclusive and liable to disappoint. Be careful and upgrade all the toy bits that fell through quality control. You might have thought it was better value for money, think again. Click this link for cross compatible clone parts and mods info. Helicopter Power
& Setup Calculator
Beginners! When you first setup you might want a more manageable setup, until you are familiar with the heli. Adding mass to increase stability indoors helps for hovering. I've add flybar weights and 3 inch strips of insulation tape to top and bottom of each blade. The fly bar weights are 2g each and ~9 inches of solder (=1g) wrapped around the flybar plus tape to prevent unwinding. Use solid paddles and weights with dual/expo rates set accordingly unless you want to fly 3D in your lounge! Initial radio setup and Pitch and Throttle curve examples: Futaba 7C channel assignment: Using inner servo horn holes all round for high resolution. Swash Ail +46% to +100% (cyclic servo limits?) Normal Mode (~2400 rpm w/o gov) Idle1 Mode (~2500 rpm w/o gov) Idle2 Mode (~2600 rpm w/o gov) Optional experimental mixes all active on one switch: Soft indoor hovering cyclic Dual and Exponential rate
on one switch: See Ms-helituning.com Hornet Setup Ruff card pitch gauge guide Outdoor Colour scheme All black components look very smart until you put 60ft
between you and the heli when... can't see $hit!!! Luminous enamel model
paint on video cassette tape stickers.
KOK Extréme white covered blades The weighted MS blades are ok but I found the KOK white covered blades 12.5g 257mm (from Duzi) to be very nice, slightly increased visibility with a wider cord, especially against a green background. Up higher they still disappear against the blue sky. I have painted the tips with luminous red/orange which helps and is really reflective on white blades. Had a bit of trouble mounting them in the stock blade grips. They where either to loose and twisting about the blade bolt of too tight and fluttering at full rpm. So I thickened up the mount point with CA glue and took the slack out of the blade bolt hole... much better tracking and no flutter without the slack.
The effects of the slightly wider cord, I find the collective feels more linear across a wider hover point, less snappy than the MS blades. The stock weighted MS blades sometimes lag and the suddenly bite the air giving a more twitchy feel, more knife edged sensitive (at 10+/- degrees). A definite improvement for me. Just remember to pre CA glue coat the KOK
blade holes, making the bolt sit snug and tight in the blade hole. Main Rotor Blades 257 mm Extréme http://www.kokcomposite.cz/en/ but ordered from http://www.duzi.cz/shop01/, small H2 review at http://www.cs.aau.dk/ Hornet X 3D - Twister(Axi 2208/20, Tsunami),
MS-116 ESC, MS-044 gyro, 3xTP1320 prolites ~15mins, AUW=375g. Futaba7C
Tx.
Links: HelitTown.COM - MS Composit Hornet X II, CP and 3D RC Heli Informaiton Page What's the main differences
between the base Hornet CP kit range? Learning To Fly (the basics to 3D moves) http://www.littlerotors.com/
& http://www.helifever.com/basic/ Detailed build guide at Hornet X 3D at www.ms-helituning.com MS Hornet Throttle/Collective Mechanical and Radio Set
Up - Ball Park Settings Setting pitch in gov mode norm/idle1 *thread* Eric Larson Hornet x 3D (II) radio setup and X 3D review See Ms-helituning.com Hornet Setup Scratch Built Collective Pitch - Hummingbird / Hornet Hybrid: CCPM Setup (detailed help) Programming Your Remote Control Tx http://www.heliguy.com/nexus/programming.html From turn the Tx on, to take off.... *thread* Hornet kicks ass thread *thread* MicroHelis New Zealand Hornet II review + Construction gallery Soldering iron to weld or form plastic parts *thread* RPM Tuning (audio frequency method) http://www.cg.its.tudelft.nl/~wouter/helipage/tips/rpm.html Custom Hybrid builds and extensive info, good site! HeliSimRC HeliSimRC is a free sim with good physics modeling (T-Rex 450), (don't forget to donate if you use it ;) ) The
Flying-Model-Simulator : FMS FREE FLIGHT SIM How to build
a simulator cable for the E-Flite Blade / E-Sky Honeybee CP2
Transmitter (outputs CCPM mixed 6ch data). - Install PPJoy... It is a bit jittery (like most micro heli's) but it works. Detailed helicopter general physics and setup information
at For the latest MS Hornet NEWS
Hornet X FP setup tips here Intro Buying Building Learning Flying Upgrades & Mods Tips Video Heli BB Glossary Links 
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